How to Remove Urine Odor and Stains from Hardwood Floors

Overview

Urine stains on hardwood flooring can be the most difficult stains to remove. Repeated urine soiling will turn the area black. Black staining indicates that there is a heavy build-up of dried uric salt crystals. Black stains also indicate wood damage has taken place (the acidic urine has burned the tannins in the wood.)

Enzyme based cleaners can remove the urine odor entirely, and can also remove the buildup of dried uric salt crystals with repeated application. The damage to the wood tannins cannot be reversed! After the black stains are removed, the wood may remain a stained gray to black consistency, which shows a permanent burning caused by the uric acid. If this is unacceptable, refinishing will be necessary. In many cases sanding can remove the damaged wood so the flooring can be refinished.

Treat the affected area with a stain remover before refinishing. The heat of sanding and refinishing can bake the urine crystals into the wood and make odor and stain removal much more difficult if sanding and refinishing is done first. Use multiple applications to remove as much of the staining as possible first, then less wood will need to be removed during the finishing process.

We carry products that helps get rid of urine and odors on carpet.

Urine-Erase uses a two-step process. First, a dry enzyme powder is mixed fresh with water. This solution is poured onto the surface of the stain and allowed to sit for 8 hours. The second step is to pour the accompanying gentle peroxide solution over the stain. This solution changes the stain and odor into an evaporable gas of water and oxygen. Once the area has air dried, any remaining enzyme on the surface is swept away and the area is clean and odor-free.

Specific Directions for Hardwood Floors

Use the following procedure for severely stained floors! Less severe problems will not require as extensive a treatment.

For Urine-Erase:

• Step One: Mix the enzyme powder according to the instructions and saturate the area you are treating. Use plastic to keep the area moist to permit the solution to dry slowly - allowing more time for the enzyme to work. Wait at least eight hours (or overnight) before moving on to the next step.
• Step Two: Pour the solution from the bottle onto the same area and let dry.
• Reapply as needed.
• For particularly old or difficult stains, saturate the area and cover with plastic wrap for 24 to 48 hours, allowing the product to stay moist and work for a longer period.

Once odor is removed, use a sponge mop and a minimal amount of water to remove residue from the surface.

Used according to instructions, these products will remove the odor, reduce the staining, and provide a better starting point for refinishing or covering with new flooring. In some cases, the results can be so good the floor can be used as is!

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I know how much of the product I need?

A: First, remember that the smell usually gets worse before it gets better. This means that the cleaner is working. The solution probably penetrated the seams or cracks in the wood and reached the subfloor so it may take several days to completely dry. If the odor still persists, then you probably need to use additional product. You must reach all the dried urine for products to work effectively. Sometimes, especially for urine on the edge of the room, the urine penetrates the baseboard on the wall. These are stubborn areas that may require additional treatment.